March 2008

The Salon

In its heyday, The Salon Picture Theatre was one of the city's finest architectural achievements: a triumph in the cinema world. Now, following an extensive refurbishment by Glasgow's G1 Group, the century old cinema is once again a shining example of classic Glasgow design. Today, however, as one of the west end's most stylish bar and restaurants, it's serving up a lot more than popcorn.

The exterior has an air of old school movie glamour while the interior is vast with ceilings which seem to reach for miles beyond a mezzanine level. Despite the extensive floor space, The Salon is intimate and cosy with mix matched furniture, candle light, soft seating areas and booths.

Regardless of the seemingly impressive menu and the striking interior, we were baffled as to its emptiness at one o'clock on a Sunday afternoon. Where was everybody? Could it be that the tempting menu was nothing more than a clever ruse?

A steak burger, I think, is always an excellent benchmark for any eating establishment so it was the gourmet 8oz Scottish steak burger, £8.95, for me. My saintly companion opted for the classic caesar salad, £6.95, and then, like a woman in true denial, chose a side order of chunky chips, £2.50.

We also ordered a bottle of sauvignon blanc, £13.50, as recommended by our server, which went down a treat on a lazy Sunday afternoon.

My steak burger was a well seasoned, thick hunk of meat and everything you would want from such a carb laden, protein rich feast. My companion's salad was crisp and fresh and, I am assured, very tasty. Her only complaint was that it was slightly underdressed, which was quickly remedied by attentive staff.

A good hour later, we decided to take a look at dessert and ordered sticky toffee pudding - a classic at £3.95 - and sangria poached pear cheesecake - a gamble at £4.50.

Our gamble paid off. The poached pear cheesecake was an instant hit and our forks were soon locked in battle over the last bite. The sticky toffee pudding, while very good, wasn't quite as popular and after several mouthfuls became sickly sweet. We soldiered on though and, in the name of good food, devoured every sugar laden bite.

Lunch finished, we were no further forward as to why The Salon was so quiet that afternoon. The food was excellent and reasonably priced, the staff attentive and friendly and, despite the size of venue, the atmosphere cosy and intimate. The Salon has a unique touch of old school glamour from its cinema days and while our lunch wasn't as noisy as that infamous one in When Harry Met Sally, it was just as pleasurable.


The Salon, 17 Vinicombe Street, G12 8SJ, Tel: 0141 576 1700 or email thesalon@g1group.com

Michael Caines @ ABode

There is an air of quiet veneration in Michael Caines @ ABode. In light of the quality of the food this is understandable; however, tambourine banging evangelicalism might be a more celebratory form of worship.

Critically acclaimed since its opening in 2005, the success is down to the culinary vision of its Michelin starred overseer who, contrary to popular belief, does not moonlight as a cockney film star.

The Bath Street branch of Michael Caines is one of several in the UK, with each religiously adhering to the Mr Caines' ethos of combining seasonal local produce with contemporary fare.

Upon our arrival, my friend Catherine and I were ushered into a pampered ocean of linen, softened with tall mirrors and warm orange lighting. It feels as though you are floating on a peaceful lily pond beaded with fireflies, which is rather pleasant. However, the note of hushed reverence didn't help the adjacent couple struggling through an awkward first date, but thankfully the food distracted me from their plight, as it would have distracted me from a tornado. In fact, it was a tornado - of the taste buds.

Catherine and I had our appetites whetted with a taster of pan-fried scallops with vanilla puree and ginger jus, £12.50. Here was an encapsulation of what MC's does best - using unlikely combinations of flavours to tantalise the tongue.

For my starter, I ordered the terrine of winter vegetables with vinaigrette truffle, £10.50, which was the culinary equivalent of walking into a warm oak-panelled study on a winter's night. My guest had to be restrained from giving her foie gras, £12.95, a standing ovation, and both dishes were complemented by the honey and vanilla tones of the excellent Trevini Primo chardonnay pinot grigio, £16.50.

My choice of main course was pan-fried brill accompanied by langoustine bisque with hints of caramel, £19.50. Despite the pleasingly acidic note of the cloudy vinaigrette potatoes, this dish was more muted than previous courses. It was upstaged by Catherine's choice of slow-poached halibut with Thai puree, £21 - the south-east Asian influence was apparent in the subtle blending of flavours, and the lemongrass foam so frothy that you half-expected the fish to swim away on it.

The service could not have been more attentive - flick, flick, and our napkins were corrected of crumples. Swish, swish, and our table swept clean of crumbs.

Our desserts, £7 each, did not disappoint. My chocolate praline with pear and chocolate mousse contrasted sweetness with a satisfyingly salty biscuit base, while Catherine's lemon tart with sorbet pushed its acidity to the limit before drawing back at just the right moment. Both were complemented by a first class dessert wine containing hints of warm pears and honeyed mangoes. Our final treat was home-made petit-fours, £3.75 with coffee, exactly the sort of temptation Marie Antoinette might have nibbled on at the opera.

The menu is a triumph - each morsel froths and foams in the mouth, each taste bud attended to with loving care. The kitchen is surely full of cauldrons, for you feel bewitched by the ribbons of flavour unravelling on your tongue. No sooner had we left than we were already reminiscing about the food. Now that's the mark of a truly great meal.


Michael Caines @ ABode, 129 Bath Street, G2. Tel: 0141 221 6789. Open Tuesday to Thursday 12-2.30pm & 7-10pm and Friday to Saturday 12-2.30pm & 6.30-10pm

Ivy

Ivy in North Street is one of those bars that, unless you take a good look around, you could mistake for somewhere your grandpa might drink. Cosy, dark with a lovingly lived in feel, it does have a touch of the Rover Return circa Albert Tatlock's day about it.

It's only on closer inspection you spot the well stylish bar staff, the impressive decks and young drinking crowd.

On even closer inspection, you get another pleasant surprise as Ivy has rum by the ship full; Hispanic, Caribbean, French, Indian Ocean... you name the rum and they're likely to have it here.

With rum such a dominant force on the Ivy drinks list, cocktails are a popular choice with the boys, as well as the girls. My boyfriend claims its Mojito, £5, is the best he's ever tried, while my brother liked the White Jamaican, £5, so much that he drank four and had to struggle through work the next day. I stuck with my usual large glass of red, merlot in this case and the best £3.80 I'd spent that day.

There's a good buzz about the Ivy and deservedly so. I've been back twice since my first visit and each time I found the staff to be quick, friendly and a great resource when choosing from the reams of rum on offer. I should point out the Ivy does offer refreshments other than rum with Budvar, Tennents, Red Stripe and Guinness on tap and Plymouth gin and Absolut vodka just two of the house spirits. The food's pretty good too.

The owners also seem to be determined to keep customers entertained with a pub quiz every Monday and well respected DJ/club nights at the weekend. The Ivy's definitely a grower.


Ivy, 157-159 North St, G3, Tel: 0141 221 1144

Open Monday to Sunday, 12pm-midnight