It's all about the chips at Partick Duck Club
Carine Seitz visits Partick Duck Club and finds a new entry for her coveted list of Top Three Places to Eat Chips...
Thin and crispy, or steaming hot wedges; the humble chip is my true culinary love
When it come to matters of the palate, I know a bisque from a bouillabaisse, I can sniff out a butter imposter, and I can blind taste chocolate’s percentage cocoa solids (I swear). But on the subject of chips, I am a card-carrying connoisseur.
Thin and crispy, or steaming hot wedges; the humble chip is my true culinary love. And so, after the promise of ‘duck fat fries with tobacco onions, aioli and chives’, I find myself in Partick Duck Club, Harris gin and Fevertree elderflower tonic, £6.95, in hand, searching the menu for accompaniments to this side.
We reason that ‘light’ starters will be sensible; salt baked beetroot with goats’ cheese cream cheese and toasted hazlenuts, £5.75, and langoustine & Orkney crab bisque, £7.95. The former’s sweet earthiness tempered with salt and the tang of goats’ cheese; while the bisque is sublime, the unmistakable heady flavour of a skilled hand in the kitchen.
Across the table it’s reasoned that the mark of a good restaurant is found in the simplest dishes as beer battered haddock, chips, tartare, peas, £7.75, meets with approval.
The problem with choosing my side first is that it results in a clash: duck leg, crispy duck egg and spiced pineapple chutney comes with duck fat chips as standard, £14.75, but they agree to add the highly anticipated tobacco onions, aioli and chives, £4.95.
The duck is tender with crackling skin; egg Scotch in style with soft, golden yolk; spiced pineapple chutney is gently acidic and fragrant with dried coriander.
But oh, the chips.
Golden brown and salty, drizzled with garlicky aioli and scattered with curled, caramelised smoky crisps of onion and scattered with chives. Tick, tick, tick.
Partick Duck Club doesn’t do things by halves, but the quality of cooking and service makes it much more than somewhere with sizeable plates.
And oh, the chips.
27 Hyndland St, Mansfield Park, Partick, G11 5QF, Tel: 0141 334 9909, partickduckclub.co.uk