Sunday roast at The Printing Press
Has Carrie Mitchell finally found THE place for a Sunday roast in Edinburgh?
Surely there is nothing more comforting than a huge roast on a Sunday afternoon. Throw in the papers, a bottle of red and a roaring fire and I’m in heaven. However, since returning to Edinburgh from London this year, I’ve been on a frustrating hunt for a roast that lives up to those on offer down South. Sadly, there are not many establishments up here that actually even offer a roast, never mind one that comes complete with the perfect puffy Yorkshire puds, fluffy roasties and a rich silky gravy. So when I heard that The Printing Press Bar & Kitchen in The Principal hotel– one of my new favourite spots in town - had launched a roast ‘experience’, I was straight on the phone to get booked in.
It was unfortunate that my booking happened to coincide with the warmest day of the year so far. Tempted as I was to head to the Shore for a bowl of mussels and a crisp glass of white outside, I dutifully marched past the crowds basking in the sunshine and headed up to George Street. Thankfully walking through the doors of The Printing Press is never a disappointment. As part of the multi-million pound refurb of the George hotel, the old Tempus restaurant has been transformed into a sophisticated grand dining room – all gleaming mahogany, teal velvet and tan leather under the most stunning art deco style chandeliers.
We were seated at an intimate table for two on a cosy banquette tucked away from the rest of the room – perfect if we’d been on a date and looking to whisper sweet nothings; slightly less so when I was more interested in having a neb at the other diners and taking in the atmosphere. At least the menu had my full attention…
Indulging the craving the unexpected sunshine had given me for a salad (weird), we started with the smoked sea trout to share. The simple bowl of leaves and chunks of fish might not have looked much when it arrived but it was the perfect pairing of tender smoky fish with fresh crisp radicchio, earthy beetroot and punchy horseradish. Most importantly, it left plenty of space for the main event – for him, succulent slices of roast beef; for myself, generous slabs of juicy pork, both served alongside all the trimmings. Puffy Yorkshires? Check. Fluffy roasties? Check. Crispy veg? But of course. And the piece de resistance? A jug each of lovely gravy to drench it all in. It was just about enough for me to forgive the chef for the lack of crispy crackling to accompany my pork. Just about.
We might have had full bellies afterwards but there was no way we were saying no to dessert, especially when the deal is £19.95 for the roast followed by a seasonal fruit crumble. The dainty ramekin of stewed apple and rhubarb topped with buttery crumble might have looked modest, but it certainly didn’t taste it – it was the richest, ooziest, most delicious dessert, only improved by the requisite creamy custard it came with. And it turned out it was pretty handy we were hidden away in a corner so no one could see us mopping up every last drop of custard on our plates with our fingers. What? I said the restaurant was sophisticated, not me.
Roast is served every Sunday at The Printing Press from 12-5pm. Two course for £19.95, children aged 4 to 12 years can eat for £9.95 and under-4s dine for free. To book, call 0131 240 7177.
The Printing Press, 21-25 George St, Edinburgh, EH2 2PB, Tel: 0131 240 7177, www.printingpressedinburgh.co.uk