Where i-on's been eating this month: Chop House
Amy Falconer discovers some new season delights at Chop House
You can’t beat a new menu, it’s the perfect excuse to revisit your favourite haunt. Well, that’s what I tell myself as I tuck into the most divine dinner at Chop House Market Street. We kick things off with short rib Scotch egg with marrow gravy and crispy shallots, £9. It’s light as a feather in comparison to its sausage-y cousin. Alongside this, we also sample the Scallop and Sugarpit pork with apple and celeriac, £14.50, and the Sugarpit pork rib with chilli jam and toasted peanuts, £9.50.
The scallop is served in the shell, fat as you like, soft and oh-so-perfectly cooked, the pork adding just the right amount of salt to contrast the sweetness of the apple and celeriac but my oh my, the ribs are something else - ruby red and perfectly marinated in the sugar mixture for over 24 hours so that the meat had tenderised to buttery, melty, unctuous levels.
For mains, there are lots of new options like treacle salmon and surf & turf but it’s the wagyu beef, £36, that catches our attention. Wagyu originates from Japan where the cattle are bred in a special way to develop increased fat marbling resulting in a richer flavour. The Chop House’s Warrendale Wagyu hails from the Yorkshire Dales and while it’s unlikely the cows have been massaged and treated to daily beer sessions (just a couple of the myths about the pampered breed), my steak certainly tastes like a cut above your average sirloin. The flavour is intense and almost gamey; a real treat for steak lovers.
But it’s not ALL about red meat here. We also opted to try a delicious new chicken dish; coal roast chicken, chimichurri and sweet potato as well as a whole host of sides: black cabbage, £3.50; soft, rich and garlicy, brocollini and chilli butter, £4.50; and the star of the show, cauliflower cheese, £4, which was so ridiculously good it was forks at the ready to get as much of it as we could before it disappeared.
Cheesy battle over, we make up over dessert - a rich, tasty but not scary-sized portion of sticky toffee pudding with butterscotch sauce and clotted cream ice cream, £7.50 and a heavenly little power bomb of a chocolate orange tart with burnt orange ice cream, £7.50.
Whether you’re a Chop House virgin or a regular like me, there is plenty to get excited about on the new menu. I’ll be back to try the steak tartare and the Surf & Turf very soon. Just try and stop me.
Arch 15 E Market St, Edinburgh EH8 8FS, chophousesteak.co.uk